24/7 Emergency Service101-3993 Henning Drive Burnaby BC V5C 6P7
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Garburator Installation

Replacing a garburator is a short job when the sink flange and discharge line cooperate, and a longer one when the last install was done badly. We quote for the real version.

Bright kitchen ready for a garburator installation
Garburator Installation

Sized for the Kitchen, Connected Properly

A garburator swap looks simple and mostly is. The failure points are the details: a sink flange that was never sealed properly, a dishwasher inlet plug left in place, a drain hose without a high loop, and mounting hardware reused past its life.

We fit the unit, seal the flange properly, connect the dishwasher the right way, test it under load, and take the old unit away.

  • ✓Right size for the household — matched to how you cook, not to the biggest box.
  • ✓Flange sealed properly — the most common source of a post-install drip.
  • ✓Dishwasher connected correctly — inlet plug removed, high loop fitted.
  • ✓Tested under load — run with water and waste before we call it done.
  • ✓Old unit removed — taken away and disposed of.
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What the Job Includes

  • Supply of the new unit, or fit your own
  • Removal and disposal of the old unit
  • New mounting hardware
  • Sink flange sealing
  • Discharge and trap connection
  • Dishwasher inlet connection
  • Testing under load
  • Advice on what not to put down it
  • Garburator repair
Related

While We Are There

Most calls turn up something else worth looking at. Here is what else we handle.

FAQs

Garburator Installation Questions

For most households a 1/2 to 3/4 horsepower continuous-feed unit is the right balance. Bigger motors grind faster and jam less, which matters in a busy kitchen, but they are also heavier and take more space under the sink. We will match it to how you actually cook rather than selling you the largest one on the shelf.
Yes, and it needs doing correctly. A new garburator ships with the dishwasher inlet plugged, and that plug has to be knocked out before connection — skipping it is the single most common cause of a dishwasher that will not drain after a garburator swap. The drain hose also needs a proper high loop or air gap to stop waste water siphoning back.
Most are. What we check is the sink flange condition, whether the existing trap arm sits at a workable height, and whether there is a switch in a sensible place. Occasionally an old install has the waste plumbed at a height that makes a modern unit awkward, and we would rather correct that than force it.
Roughly eight to twelve years with normal use. What kills them early is what goes down them — fats and grease, fibrous vegetable waste, coffee grounds and bones all shorten the life considerably.
Usually not. Most replacements reuse the existing switched outlet under the sink. If there is no power there at all — because you are adding a garburator rather than replacing one — that part is electrical work and you will need an electrician to provide the circuit. We will tell you upfront which situation applies.

New Garburator Fitted

Right size for the household, dishwasher connected properly, old unit taken away.

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